Material honesty
Art and design are inextricably linked to the materials from which they are born. Every material tells its own story, shaped by its unique characteristics and inherent properties.
In collection0001, the focus is on honouring and preserving the integrity of these materials, allowing them to be at the forefront of both function and form.
There’s a delicate balance at play here—one where aesthetics, functionality, and construction work harmoniously with the materials chosen. The philosophy driving this collection is a commitment to using materials in the most ‘honest’ way possible, ensuring that their natural essence remains unaltered, and their raw beauty shines through.
By bridging traditional craftsmanship with modern industrial techniques, collection0001 exemplifies a new kind of luxury—one that blends generations of British artisanal expertise with contemporary processes to create modernist pieces that transcend typical art forms.
Sourced exclusively from United Kingdom, the materials featured in this collection speak to British heritage, embodying artisanry, innovation, and a commitment to excellence. This is craftsmanship where performance and quality are paramount and design that respects the past while redefining the future.
Oak bark tanned leather
Leather can be dated back to 400,000 years ago. This versatile, durable and beautiful material has been used for all sorts of purposes through the ages. Its versatility and durability, coupled with the skill and dedication of leather craftsmen, ensure that leather remains a timeless material deeply rooted in human history and culture.
J & F.J. Baker have been Oak Bark tanning since 1862 at a tannery that dates back to Roman times. Generations of knowledge have perfected their process to produce beautiful, hardwearing and unique leather with superior tensile strength. Using all natural, locally, and sustainably sourced materials each piece of leather takes over a year to produce and many hours of labour intensive work.
The hides come from beef cattle raised in Devon. As a predominantly, free-range farming area, these cattle are a by-product of a sustainable meat industry.
They are then tanned in a “tea” made from oak bark, taken from sustainably coppiced UK trees that are dried and then crushed into smaller pieces by a 400 year old mechanism that is run by a water wheel.
Oak bark tanned leather, particularly processed using J & F.J. Baker’s perfected methods (combination of traditional and modern) is highly sustainable from end-to-end with little to no effectual waste to dispose off.
Using full grained leather means, that the characteristics of the each hide is preserved and honoured - like fingerprints no two pieces are alike and contain “imperfections.” Each piece of hide is carefully hand selected by the designer before it is ready for production. This is the stage when the designer learns about the hide’s characteristics and unique qualities and begins to imagine, how they may work harmoniously together to produce an article which looks, feels and works beautifully while retaining the hide’s original features and integrity.
Brass hardware
Another ancient material, the history of brass dates back to ancient civilisations. It is believed that brass was first created around 5000 BCE and was popularised by the Romans. We chose brass for the hardware in collection001, not only for its aesthetics but for its durability, corrosion resistance, anti-bacterial properties, low friction and acoustic qualities. This versatile metal can be shined back into its glory or left to develop a natural patina - re-purposed, re-cycled and re-used time and time again.
All the brass hardware used in collection0001 have either been custom moulded, hand casted by or sourced from Abbey England in Walsall. The bespoke and brass casted products are usually done in their their 185 year old foundry in Walsall. The process of hand casting and forging is an intense one, requiring patience, skills, experience and tolerance of intense heat.
Brass casting, as a tactile and artistic process, begins with the creation of a crucible. A crucible is a heat-resistant vessel where hot metals are poured into. To create this, the pattern is placed in a wooden box of two halves, where sand in filled. Compression is then applied to the sand at the top and bottom, sculpting the sand into an intricate imprint.
The next stage of this craft is where raw material meets fire. The brass is heated in a furnace or kiln, with temperatures soaring to at least 930°C (1710°F), which is the general melting point for brass. This molten state is the precursor to the delicate act of "pouring", where timing and precision are critically balanced.
It is crucial that when pouring the molten brass into the crucible, the pouring temperature is hotter than the melting temperature (as the exact melting temperature is also the freezing temperature; the metal has to have time to fill the mould before solidifying.) The purer the metal is, the narrower the melting/pouring range because impurities broaden the range by lowering the required minimum temperature. The shape of the mould is an important consideration for pouring temperature. A simple mould, like a sphere or rod, is filled quickly and easily. But a complex design will take more time to fill and will therefore require a higher pouring temperature.
The crucible filled with molten brass is then allowed to rest and cool. Once cooled, the box is “knocked” a part, revealing the rough cut of the object. Finally, the object goes through a process of barrelling, filing or polishing to produce the desired finished.
Organic waxed cotton
Waxed cotton, one of the oldest fabrics in the world today, sees its history rooted in Britain’s love affair with the seas and the ancient mariners who fought the the northern waters in Britain. Originally engineered from flax and fish oils to weather the storms and keep the wearer sheltered from the elements, it has evolved over time to cotton and wax, which are more lightweight and smell better! A true British invention and a performance fabric which has been trusted for generations and has truly withstood the test of time.
GOTS certified organic cotton and fluorocarbon free, these materials are gentle to the environment, using low-impact processes and by-products from other industries.
The waxed cotton used in collection0001 is treated with an emulsified wax which is heat-processed into the cloth for a longer lasting finish and higher performance. The finish is vegan.
Marlow Ropes Blue Ocean® recycled marine rope
Marlow Rope's BLUE OCEAN® yarn is GRS certified and manufactured from 100% recycled waste plastic bottles collected from disposal units. The bottles are manufactured into recycled polyester (rPET) to produce a yarn which has the same specifications and technical characteristics as polyester yarn manufactured using virgin feedstock. Provided it has not been mixed with any other chemicals or fibre materials, BLUE OCEAN® yarn can be recycled again at the end of its life, therefore aiding a circular economy.
Since 2018, Marlow Ropes have been developing products using sustainably sourced fibres in all of their standard synthetic rope ranges. Most significantly they are reducing reliance on fossil fuels by using fibres either manufactured from waste plastic or natural sources in the Leisure Marine and Arboriculture markets.
Designed and produced for performance for heavy duty activities and all weather conditions.
Beeswax balsam leather conditioner
All our leather articles are finished with an all natural beeswax balsam, which is gentle enough for humans and dogs.
Organically-produced and humanely-harvested beeswax from local beekeepers that is triple-filtered, finest natural ingredients and no petrochemicals:
- Cosmetic-grade lanolin (wool wax) that replicates the natural lubrication of animal skin, softening leather, preventing it from drying and allowing the fibres to move smoothly across each other and so reduces abrasive wear. It is both water-retaining and repellent.
- T1-grade natural carnauba wax, the 'queen of waxes.' It provides a crystal-clear, hard-wearing, non-greasy waterproof finish that allows the natural colour of the leather to shine through while locking-in the softening oils and emollients.
- Sweet almond and coconut oils as a pleasant-smelling top-up to the natural oils which evaporate naturally, to prevent the leather from becoming brittle and cracking over time.
- Cocoa butter a natural emollient with great stability. This quality, coupled with natural antioxidants, velvety texture, pleasant fragrance and emollient properties have made it a popular ingredient in soaps and lotions.
